Salicylic acid has a bit of a reputation as a skincare miracle worker, especially for those of us dealing with acne, blackheads, or oily skin.

But what happens when the supposed hero ingredient seems to make things worse rather than better?

If you've found your skin looking red, irritated, or even breaking out more than usual after using salicylic acid, you’re not alone. Let’s dive into why this happens and, more importantly, how to use salicylic acid in the best way possible to avoid these side effects.

What is Salicylic Acid?

Salicylic acid is a popular exfoliant choice for acne prone and oily skin types because it's oil-soluble, meaning it can penetrate deep into your pores, helping break down clogged up dead skin cells and excess sebum.

This ability to get into the nooks and crannies of your pores makes salicylic acid incredibly effective for targeting acne, blackheads, and general congestion.

Why Is Salicylic Acid Making My Skin Worse?

You’re excited to tackle those stubborn spots, but after a few days of using your salicylic acid product, your skin seems much unhappier.

Redness, dryness, and even more breakouts can leave you feeling like you've made a terrible mistake. So, why does this happen?

1. Overuse

Salicylic acid is powerful, and using it too often can strip your skin of its natural oils. When your skin’s protective barrier is compromised, it reacts by producing even more oil to compensate, which can lead to breakouts and irritation.

This is particularly common if you're applying salicylic acid every day or multiple times a day, especially without proper moisturisation.

2. Wrong Strength

Salicylic acid comes in different concentrations, typically ranging from 0.5% to 2%. If you’re using a formula that’s too strong for your skin type, irritation is bound to follow.

For someone new to salicylic acid or with sensitive skin, starting with a lower concentration is crucial.

3. Mixing with Other Actives

Are you layering salicylic acid with other active skincare ingredients like retinol or benzoyl peroxide? While these actives can be highly effective on their own, combining them without careful thought can lead to excessive dryness, irritation, and yes, more breakouts.

4. It Might Just Not be For You! (Sorry)

Troubleshooting is important, especially when there’s a chance we’re just using a product incorrectly, or too much.

There is a world however where Salicylic Acid just doesn’t agree with your skin regardless how much you perfect the application process. This could be considered a sensitivity or mild allergy- but ultimately- do what’s best for your skin and what makes it happy.

Many retailers have generous return policies, especially for adverse reactions to products.

How to Use Salicylic Acid the Right Way

Now that you know what might be going wrong, let’s talk about how to harness the power of salicylic acid properly to get the results we’ve all been promised.

1. Start Slow

Patience is key. If you’re new to salicylic acid, start by using it just once or twice a week.

Your skin needs time to adjust to any active ingredient, and starting slowly can help you avoid irritation. You can gradually increase frequency as your skin builds tolerance, but there’s no need to rush.

Read: How Long Does Skincare Take to Work?

2. Choose the Right Concentration

If you have sensitive or dry skin, go for a lower concentration—0.5% to 1% is a good place to start.

For oily or acne-prone skin, you can try a 2% solution, but again, ease into it. Higher concentrations don’t necessarily mean better results, especially if your skin can’t tolerate them.

3. Moisturise, Moisturise, Moisturise

Salicylic acid can dry out your skin, so following up with a good moisturiser is non-negotiable. Look for non-comedogenic options (meaning they won’t clog your pores) to keep your skin hydrated without undoing all your hard work.

4. Use Sunscreen Daily

Any exfoliating ingredient like salicylic acid can make your skin more sensitive to the sun, so wearing sunscreen every day is a must.

Even if you don’t see the sun as much during American winters, those UV rays are still there and can cause damage, especially to newly exfoliated skin. Opt for a broad-spectrum SPF50+ and make it part of your daily routine.

5. Avoid Harsh Combinations

While it might be tempting to create your own power-packed skincare routine, using salicylic acid with other potent actives (like retinoids, vitamin C, or benzoyl peroxide) can do more harm than good.

Stick to one active at a time, or consult with a dermatologist if you’re keen on combining ingredients.

This will give you the best chance of avoiding irritation or overstimulation.

How Often Should You Use Salicylic Acid?

Once your skin has adjusted to salicylic acid, you can use it 2-3 times a week, depending on your skin’s needs.

Some people with very oily or acne-prone skin can tolerate daily use at lower percentages, but it’s essential to pay attention to how your skin reacts.

If you notice increased dryness, flakiness, or redness, it’s a sign that your skin needs a break. Listen to your skin and adjust accordingly.

The Bottom Line

Salicylic acid can be a core component in your skincare routine when used correctly, but it’s essential to avoid common mistakes like overuse, choosing the wrong strength, or combining it with too many other actives.

Start slow, pick the right formula for your skin, and always follow up with a good moisturiser and sunscreen (AM). It might take a little time and patience, but when used properly, salicylic acid can help you achieve clearer, smoother skin without the unwanted side effects.